Dispatch 12 - Liphofung Caves and beyond
Smiling Mamohlakala, a lovely Basutho lady allows us to roll out our bed- rolls on the cow dung floors of her typical Basutho village just above the historic Liphofung Caves. (A small thatched lodge is about to open).
Next morning descending down the pathway from the village toward the river a hidden cave emerges engulfed by a towering sandstone overhang, a lair so hard to imagine standing just a short distance above on the ridge. One is immersed in a sense of history once inside, the tranquil sound of the trickling stream alludes to the sanctuary it provided to King Moshoeshoe and his tribe during troubled times and the San people for centuries before. The first and most striking paintings we come across as we enter are four tall hunters with animal like heads, tusks and hooves. The art shows these small hunter-gatherers bleeding from the nose reminding us of the dream like trance experiences so important in San religion.
Warmed by the winter sun we peel of the layers of winter clothing, it's time to move again forever forward zigzaging across Africa to link 2 Oceans, 7 Tranfrontiers, 9 countries and the communities between - Called Boundless Southern Africa Expedition it's all about Nature, Culture and Community. A line of men on horse back escort our expedition Landies and Government vehicles into the settlement of Mafika de Sio cultural traditions are alive and well in the mountain kingdom as little girls in loin cloths take each expedition member by the hand and lead us to a long table and chairs under a tent on the side of a soccer field surrounded by yellow sand stone cliffs. We are offered small bowls of sorghum and beans and a clay pot of porridge beer. The proceedings start with a prayer, the Momonsa primary school performs a wonderful diviners skit, blanketed boys from an initiation school sing a song about 2010. The master of ceremonies chants 'Khotso Pula Nala' - Peace, Rain and Prosperity.
Dressed in white hats, red blankets, black trousers and white gum boots a team of horse men, the leader carrying a red and blue flag fluttering from a white stick, trots in a perfect circle. Man and Basotho Pony in perfect harmony. On command they all stop each rider stands next to the horses head another command and the horses roll onto their sides. One at a time the riders chant praise poetry it's a wonderful occasion.
Their bodies dorbed with white clay and dressed in goat skin aprons, initiation girls with cardboard masked faces sing in perfect harmony. As is the polite custom some of the expedition members dance forward in appreciation to place paper notes of money in the dust in front of the dancers. We distribute soccer balls, whistles, bibs, mobile libraries and Rite to Sight spectacles.
Chief Executive of Lesotho Tourism - Mr Mtwalo Mtwalo - gives a speech. He is dressed in a straw hat a red tie white jacket dark longs and sun glasses he thanks the expedition team for linking Nature, Culture and Community.
The team of horsemen escorts us to a little stream that marks our exit from Lesotho. There's a school girl standing on a rock with a piece of cardboard that reads - Please Forget Us Not. Our journey by Land Rover, bicycle and Basotho pony across the mountain Kingdom of Lesotho has been an unforgettable experience!!We'll keep you posted.
